Bathhouses, Forest Spirits & Folklore: The Japan Behind Spirited Away

On my last visit to Japan, I set out on a path less traveled—one that led through moss-covered shrines, misty mountains, and age-old festivals. My mission? To trace the threads of inspiration behind Spirited Away, the timeless Studio Ghibli masterpiece that continues to enchant viewers across the globe. What I uncovered wasn’t just a series of picturesque spots—it was a journey into the heart of Japan’s spirit world, where history, myth, and imagination blur. This isn’t your average travel tale; it’s a deep dive into the real and mythical roots of one of cinema’s most magical realms.

Where the Magic Begins: Inside Studio Ghibli

Let’s start where the dream came to life: Studio Ghibli in Koganei, Tokyo. Unlike its mega-studio counterparts like Pixar, Studio Ghibli is a quiet cluster of cozy buildings nestled in a leafy neighborhood. Miyazaki designed it himself with soft natural light, lush greenery, and a layout meant to foster creativity. Even his personal art studio is just around the corner, hidden in plain sight.

This neighborhood vibe says a lot about how Miyazaki works—he draws deeply from his surroundings. His creative flow stems from the everyday magic of Japanese life. And just like Chihiro steps through a mysterious tunnel into a spirit world, so too does Miyazaki pull from his own backyard to create otherworldly stories.

A Neighborhood Frozen in Time: Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum

A short walk from the studio is the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, a sprawling open-air collection of preserved buildings from different eras. Miyazaki strolled here often during the production of Spirited Away, soaking in the nostalgic atmosphere.

And it shows. The curved rooftops of the ghost town, the old-timey shops, and the bathhouse architecture in the film all echo this museum. Even Komaji’s boiler room, with its wall of wooden drawers, was inspired by a 1920s stationery shop in the museum. It’s here that you begin to understand just how layered Spirited Away is—melding pieces of Japanese history into a spiritual mosaic.

Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum-insideabuilding

The Bathhouse: More Than Just a Pretty Building

Ah, the bathhouse. It’s arguably the most iconic structure in Spirited Away, and its origins span centuries and styles.

  • Dogo Onsen (Matsuyama) – One of Japan’s oldest hot springs, it inspired the traditional architecture of the bathhouse.
  • Meguro Gajoen (Tokyo) – This 1928 luxury hotel lent its grand, golden interiors to the spirit world.
  • Sekizenkan Ryokan (Gunma) – Perhaps the closest in resemblance to the film’s bathhouse, with its red bridge and glowing windows, this 400-year-old inn sits peacefully in an onsen town Miyazaki often visited.

Together, they form a fantastical yet familiar bathhouse that anchors the entire spirit realm.

Dogo onsen honkan long exposure

Spirits of the Past: Japanese Folklore in the Film

While architecture plays a key role, Spirited Away's magic is steeped in folklore. The film's Japanese title, Sen to Chihiro no Kamikakushi, refers to the ancient concept of kamikakushi, or "being spirited away." Think of it as Japan’s version of stepping into Narnia or falling down the rabbit hole.

Many characters are based on traditional kami (spirits) from Japanese lore. Kamaji, the boiler-room keeper, resembles a spider demon called Sujigumo. Yubaba, with her oversized head and sorceress powers, is inspired by Yama-Uba, mountain witches who were both feared and revered.

Even the greedy transformations and polluted river spirits reflect deeper cultural beliefs—many of which have roots in Shintoism, Japan’s indigenous spiritual tradition that sees divinity in nature itself.

The Deeper Message: Healing from Modernity

Here’s where things get philosophical.

Early in the film, Chihiro’s parents stumble into a seemingly abandoned theme park—a setting that mirrors Japan’s haikyō (ruins) left behind after the burst of the country’s economic bubble in the 1990s. This backdrop isn’t just eerie—it’s Miyazaki’s quiet critique of consumer culture, excess, and the disconnection from tradition.

Characters like No-Face and the River Spirit are distorted by pollution and greed, only finding peace when cleansed. Through these metaphors, Miyazaki invites us to pause and reflect on what we’ve lost in the name of progress.

As he once put it, “Today’s children are surrounded by a high-tech world and increasingly lose sight of their roots.” Spirited Away is his antidote to that loss.

The Hidden Gem: Shimosuki Festival in Shimaguri no Sato

After months of wandering, I finally found what may be the film’s deepest root—a tiny village in Nagano, high in the Japanese Alps, with only 50 residents. Shimaguri no Sato hosts one of the country’s most obscure festivals: the Shimosuki Festival.

Once a year, 281 gods are said to descend on the village to bathe in sacred waters. This ritual of spiritual purification was a direct inspiration for the bathhouse scenes in Spirited Away—especially the cleansing of the River Spirit.

But beyond visuals, this ceremony is about renewal. Known in ancient times as Yomigaeru—to return to life—the festival marks the turning of seasons and the revival of energy. It’s a moment to reconnect with nature, ancestors, and one’s spiritual roots.

And in that sense, it's the heart of Spirited Away.

That Train Scene… and Moving Forward

Let’s talk about the train scene—the slow, silent journey across water that leaves even adults misty-eyed. What does it mean?

To me, it's about surrendering to the flow of time. Chihiro, once timid and unsure, boards the train with calm acceptance. She’s no longer clinging to the past or terrified of the future. She’s simply present. It’s one of the film’s most powerful messages: change is inevitable, but that doesn’t mean we’re lost. We carry every lesson, every spirit, every moment with us.

A Tale for All Time

So, what does all this tell us?

Spirited Away isn’t just a fantasy tale for kids—it’s a living, breathing homage to Japan’s cultural soul. From sacred festivals in snowy mountain villages to abandoned theme parks and ancient bathhouses, it invites us to look deeper—into the past, into nature, and into ourselves.

For travelers, this journey offers something special. Not just beautiful destinations, but experiences that stir the soul and awaken a deeper sense of curiosity.

So, next time you watch Spirited Away, remember: every scene is a real story, a real place, a real belief system. And with a backpack, a rail pass, and an open mind—you can walk right into it.

Posted 
Apr 4, 2025
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