Orkney Islands: Where Ancient History Meets Natural Beauty

The Orkney Islands are not just a destination; they are a portal to another world, a place where history breathes through the land and the sea whispers tales of ancient times. Situated off the northern coast of Scotland, this archipelago is a treasure trove of archaeological wonders, dramatic landscapes, and rich cultural heritage. From the moment you set foot on these islands, the sense of timelessness is palpable, making Orkney a journey back through the millennia.

Arriving in Orkney, I was immediately struck by the rugged beauty of the landscape. The air was crisp and fresh, filled with the scent of the sea, and the horizon stretched out endlessly, merging sky and water into a serene tapestry. The islands, with their rolling green hills, dramatic cliffs, and pristine beaches, offer a peaceful retreat into nature, where the pace of life slows down, allowing you to fully absorb the unique atmosphere. But beyond the natural beauty lies a rich tapestry of history, from Neolithic villages to Viking relics, making Orkney a place where the past and present coexist in perfect harmony.

How Long to Stay in the Orkney Islands

To fully appreciate the Orkney Islands, I recommend spending at least five to seven days here. This gives you enough time to explore the main attractions, delve into the islands' deep history, and soak in the natural beauty at a leisurely pace. Whether you're fascinated by archaeology, drawn to wildlife, or simply in search of tranquility, a week in Orkney allows you to experience the islands without feeling rushed.

When to Visit the Orkney Islands

Orkney is a year-round destination, with each season offering a different experience of the islands' beauty and culture.

Spring (April to June): Spring is a wonderful time to visit Orkney. The landscape comes alive with blooming wildflowers, and the islands are a haven for birdwatchers, with puffins, guillemots, and other seabirds returning to nest. The weather is mild, and the days are long, providing plenty of daylight to explore. Spring also brings the Orkney Folk Festival, a vibrant celebration of traditional music that draws performers and visitors from all over the world.

Summer (July to August): Summer is the most popular time to visit Orkney, and for good reason. The islands are at their greenest, the seas are calm, and the daylight seems to stretch on forever, thanks to Orkney’s northern latitude. This is the perfect time for outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and exploring the beaches. However, summer is also the busiest time of year, so it’s wise to book accommodations and ferry crossings well in advance.

Autumn (September to October): Autumn in Orkney is marked by a quieter, more reflective atmosphere. The tourist crowds have thinned, and the landscape takes on the warm hues of the season. This is a great time for walking and photography, as the light during this time of year is often stunning. Autumn also offers the chance to witness the Northern Lights, or "Mirrie Dancers" as they are known locally, on clear nights.

Winter (November to March): Winter in Orkney is for the intrepid traveler. The islands are often buffeted by strong winds and storms, but they also offer a stark, rugged beauty that’s hard to match. The days are short, but the long nights provide the best opportunity to see the Northern Lights. Winter is also the season of the Orkney Yule celebrations, which bring a sense of warmth and community to the islands during the darkest months.

How to Get to the Orkney Islands

Reaching the Orkney Islands is an adventure in itself, with options by air and sea.

By Ferry: The most popular way to reach Orkney is by ferry. NorthLink Ferries operates regular services from Aberdeen, Scrabster, and Gills Bay on the Scottish mainland to the ports of Stromness and Kirkwall on Orkney. The ferry from Scrabster to Stromness is particularly scenic, taking you past the Old Man of Hoy, a striking sea stack that rises dramatically from the water. The journey takes about 90 minutes to three hours, depending on your departure point. Ferries can carry vehicles, making it easy to explore the islands by car once you arrive.

By Air: For a quicker journey, you can fly to Orkney. Loganair offers regular flights from major Scottish cities, including Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Inverness, to Kirkwall Airport. The flight takes about an hour, and on a clear day, you’ll be treated to stunning aerial views of the islands. Car rentals are available at the airport, or you can take a taxi or bus to your accommodation.

Must-Do Activities in the Orkney Islands

1. Skara Brae: A Window into Prehistoric Life

One of the most remarkable archaeological sites in the world, Skara Brae is a must-visit for anyone interested in ancient history. This Neolithic village, buried under sand for thousands of years and uncovered by a storm in 1850, offers a fascinating glimpse into life 5,000 years ago.

As I walked through the stone dwellings of Skara Brae, I was struck by how well-preserved everything is—the houses, built from local stone, still have their original stone furniture, including beds, dressers, and hearths. The site is incredibly evocative, allowing you to imagine what life was like for Orkney’s earliest inhabitants. The visitor center at Skara Brae provides excellent context, with displays on the daily life, tools, and environment of the Neolithic people who lived here.

2. The Ring of Brodgar: Standing Stones of Ancient Power

The Ring of Brodgar is one of Orkney’s most iconic landmarks, a massive stone circle that dates back to around 2500 BC. Located on a narrow strip of land between two lochs, the Ring of Brodgar is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that also includes Skara Brae and the Standing Stones of Stenness.

Visiting the Ring of Brodgar is a deeply moving experience. The sheer scale of the circle, with its towering stones and panoramic views, is awe-inspiring. Walking among the stones, I felt a profound connection to the ancient people who erected this monument thousands of years ago. The site is particularly atmospheric at sunrise or sunset when the light casts long shadows across the landscape.

3. Maeshowe: A Neolithic Masterpiece

Maeshowe is another of Orkney’s archaeological treasures, a Neolithic chambered cairn and passage grave that dates back over 5,000 years. The mound, which from the outside appears as a simple grassy hill, hides an elaborate stone chamber inside, built with remarkable precision.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Maeshowe is its alignment with the winter solstice—on the shortest days of the year, the setting sun shines directly into the entrance passage, illuminating the central chamber. The interior of Maeshowe is also adorned with Viking runes, carved by Norsemen who broke into the tomb in the 12th century. These inscriptions are the largest collection of runic writing found outside Scandinavia. Visiting Maeshowe requires booking a guided tour, which provides in-depth insights into the site’s history and significance.

4. St. Magnus Cathedral: Orkney’s Medieval Masterpiece

Located in the heart of Kirkwall, Orkney’s main town, St. Magnus Cathedral is a stunning example of medieval architecture and a testament to the islands’ Norse heritage. The cathedral, founded in 1137 by the Viking Earl Rognvald, is built from striking red and yellow sandstone, giving it a warm, glowing appearance.

Stepping inside St. Magnus Cathedral, I was immediately struck by the sense of history that permeates the building. The interior is filled with beautiful stone carvings, intricate stained glass windows, and the tomb of St. Magnus himself, a local saint and martyr. The cathedral is still very much a living church, hosting regular services and concerts, and is an important cultural hub for the Orkney community.

5. Orkney’s Coastal Walks: Cliffs, Coves, and Wildlife

The Orkney Islands boast some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Scotland, with dramatic cliffs, secluded coves, and expansive beaches that are perfect for walking. One of the highlights of my visit was the walk along the cliffs at Yesnaby, on the west coast of Mainland Orkney. The cliffs here are rugged and wild, with the Atlantic waves crashing against them, creating a dramatic backdrop for a hike.

The walk to the Old Man of Hoy, a towering sea stack on the island of Hoy, is another must-do. The hike is challenging but rewarding, with stunning views along the way. The coastal areas of Orkney are also rich in wildlife, including seals, otters, and a variety of seabirds. Keep an eye out for puffins during the spring and summer months.

6. The Italian Chapel: A Testament to Resilience and Faith

One of the most unique and moving sites in Orkney is the Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm, a small island connected to the Mainland by the Churchill Barriers. The chapel was built by Italian prisoners of war during World War II, who were interned on the island while they worked on constructing the barriers to protect Scapa Flow.

The chapel, made from two Nissen huts joined together, is a remarkable example of craftsmanship and devotion. The interior is beautifully painted and decorated, creating an atmosphere of peace and reverence. Visiting the Italian Chapel is a powerful reminder of the resilience of the human spirit, even in the most challenging circumstances.

7. The Orkney Islands Distillery: A Taste of Local Spirit

No visit to Orkney would be complete without sampling some of the local whisky. Orkney is home to two distilleries: Highland Park, located in Kirkwall, and Scapa, situated on the edge of Scapa Flow. Both distilleries produce world-class single malt whiskies that reflect the unique character of the islands.

A tour of Highland Park offers a fascinating insight into the traditional methods of whisky production, from malting the barley to aging the spirit in oak casks. The distillery’s location, exposed to the elements on the northern edge of Kirkwall, contributes to the distinctive, peaty flavor of its whisky. Scapa Distillery, known for its smooth, honeyed whisky, also offers tours where you can learn about the distillation process and taste the finished product. Bringing home a bottle of Orkney whisky is the perfect way to remember your time on the islands.

8. The Churchill Barriers: Engineering and History

The Churchill Barriers are a series of causeways that connect several of the southern Orkney islands to Mainland Orkney. Built during World War II to protect the naval base at Scapa Flow from German submarines, the barriers are a remarkable feat of engineering and an important part of Orkney’s history.

Driving across the barriers, with the sea on either side, is an experience in itself. Along the way, you’ll see the rusting remains of blockships, deliberately sunk to block enemy vessels before the barriers were built. The barriers also lead to some of Orkney’s quieter, less-visited islands, offering a glimpse of the islands’ rugged beauty away from the main tourist routes.

9. The Broch of Gurness: A Journey into Iron Age Orkney

The Broch of Gurness, located on the west coast of Mainland Orkney, is one of the best-preserved examples of an Iron Age broch—a type of drystone tower unique to Scotland. This ancient settlement, which dates back over 2,000 years, offers a fascinating glimpse into life during the Iron Age.

Walking among the stone walls and circular structures of the Broch of Gurness, I could almost picture the daily lives of its inhabitants. The site is situated on a headland overlooking Eynhallow Sound, with stunning views of the surrounding islands. The setting, combined with the well-preserved remains, makes the Broch of Gurness a must-visit for history enthusiasts.

10. Rousay: The Egypt of the North

Rousay, one of the smaller Orkney islands, is often referred to as the "Egypt of the North" due to its high concentration of archaeological sites. The island is home to over 150 ancient sites, including chambered cairns, brochs, and standing stones, making it a paradise for history buffs.

One of the highlights of Rousay is the Midhowe Broch and Cairn, a complex site that includes an impressive Iron Age broch and a large Neolithic cairn. The walk along the coast to reach Midhowe is beautiful, with sweeping views across the water to the Mainland. Rousay is also a great place to see wildlife, including seals, otters, and a variety of seabirds.

Where to Eat in the Orkney Islands: 3 Personal Favorites

After a day of exploring, the Orkney Islands offer a variety of dining options where you can enjoy fresh, local produce:

1. The Foveran: Located just outside Kirkwall, The Foveran is known for its exceptional seafood and stunning views over Scapa Flow. The menu features local specialties such as Orkney scallops, lobster, and North Ronaldsay lamb, all prepared with a modern twist.

2. The Creel: Situated in the village of St. Margaret’s Hope, The Creel offers a cozy dining experience with a focus on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The seafood chowder is a particular highlight, rich and flavorful, perfect after a day of exploring.

3. Helgi’s: Located on the waterfront in Kirkwall, Helgi’s is a popular pub that offers hearty meals and a welcoming atmosphere. The menu includes traditional Orkney dishes, and the extensive whisky selection makes it a great spot for an evening drink.

Where to Stay in the Orkney Islands: 3 Great Options

Choosing the right accommodation can greatly enhance your Orkney Islands experience. Here are three top recommendations:

1. The Lynnfield Hotel: Located in Kirkwall, The Lynnfield Hotel offers comfortable rooms and a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The hotel is known for its excellent restaurant, which serves dishes made from local ingredients, and its impressive whisky collection.

2. Kirkwall Hotel: Situated on the harborfront in Kirkwall, this historic hotel offers stylish accommodations with easy access to the town’s main attractions. The hotel’s restaurant and bar are popular with both locals and visitors.

3. The Sands Hotel: Located in Burray, one of the southern Orkney islands, The Sands Hotel offers beautiful views over the water and comfortable, modern rooms. The hotel’s restaurant is known for its fresh seafood and friendly service.

Insider Tips for an Unforgettable Orkney Islands Experience

Before you set off on your Orkney Islands adventure, here are a few tips to make your trip even more enjoyable:

1. Weather Preparedness: Orkney’s weather can be unpredictable, so pack layers, including waterproof clothing, and be ready for sudden changes. The wind can be strong, especially on the coast, so a good windproof jacket is essential.

2. Transportation: Renting a car is the best way to explore the Orkney Islands at your own pace, as public transport can be limited. The roads are generally quiet, but take care when driving on narrow, single-track roads, especially if you’re not used to them.

3. Respect the Sites: The Orkney Islands are home to many ancient sites, some of which are fragile and require special care. Follow any guidelines provided, avoid touching or climbing on the ruins, and stick to marked paths to help preserve these important historical treasures.

4. Book in Advance: During the summer months, Orkney can get busy, so it’s a good idea to book your accommodation, ferry crossings, and any tours or activities in advance to avoid disappointment.

5. Northern Lights: If you’re visiting in autumn or winter, keep an eye on the night sky. The Orkney Islands are one of the best places in Scotland to see the Northern Lights, especially during periods of increased solar activity.

The Okeny Islands have a way of speaking to you, through the whispers of history in the Neolithic ruins and the roar of the North Sea. It’s a place that doesn’t let you go when you leave; instead, it travels with you, woven into your thoughts, surfacing in quiet moments, reminding you of a time and place where the past and present felt inseparable.