Ascension Island is a remote volcanic island located in the South Atlantic Ocean, roughly halfway between the coasts of Africa and South America. This small, isolated island is a true hidden gem, offering adventurous travelers a unique opportunity to explore stunning landscapes, encounter rare wildlife, and delve into a rich history that spans centuries. In this comprehensive guide, we'll cover everything you need to know to plan your trip to Ascension Island, including the best time to visit, how to get there, top activities, where to stay, where to eat, and essential travel tips.
Discovering Ascension Island: An Overview
Ascension Island is a part of the British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension, and Tristan da Cunha. The island itself is relatively small, covering an area of just 88 square kilometers (34 square miles), yet it offers an incredible diversity of experiences for those who venture to its shores. Ascension is a volcanic island, with Green Mountain—the highest peak—rising to 2,817 feet (859 meters) above sea level. The island's rugged, otherworldly landscape is characterized by barren lava fields, black sand beaches, and lush, green forests at higher elevations.
Georgetown: The island's capital and main settlement is Georgetown, located on the northwestern coast. This small town is the administrative and economic hub of the island, home to most of the island's roughly 800 residents. Georgetown's architecture reflects its colonial history, with colorful buildings, quaint streets, and several historic sites that tell the story of Ascension's past.
Population: The population of Ascension Island is around 800 people, comprising a mix of British citizens, expatriate workers, and contractors who support the island's various facilities, including the Royal Air Force base, the BBC World Service Atlantic Relay Station, and NASA's tracking station. The island does not have a permanent civilian population, as most residents live on the island temporarily for work-related assignments.
Best Time to Visit Ascension Island
The best time to visit Ascension Island is from May to October, during the cooler months of the year. The island experiences a subtropical climate, with temperatures ranging from 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F) throughout the year. However, the cooler season offers more comfortable weather for outdoor activities like hiking, exploring, and wildlife watching. This period also coincides with the nesting season for the endangered Green Turtles, providing a unique opportunity to observe these creatures as they come ashore to lay their eggs.
How to Get There
Reaching Ascension Island requires some planning due to its remote location and limited access. Here are the main ways to get to the island:
By Air:
- RAF Flights: The most common way to reach Ascension Island is via the Royal Air Force (RAF) flights that operate between RAF Brize Norton in Oxfordshire, UK, and Wideawake Airfield on Ascension Island. These flights are primarily for military personnel and contractors, but civilians can book seats on a space-available basis. Due to the limited number of flights, it's crucial to book well in advance. Bookings can be made through the Ascension Island Government website or by contacting RAF Brize Norton directly.
- South Atlantic Airbridge: Another option is the South Atlantic Airbridge, which operates flights between the UK and the Falkland Islands, with a stopover at Ascension Island. These flights are also military-operated but are available to civilians. The journey takes approximately 8 hours from the UK to Ascension, with a brief refueling stop at Wideawake Airfield.
By Sea:
- MV Helena: For those looking for a more scenic and leisurely route, the MV Helena supply ship operates between Cape Town, South Africa, and Ascension Island. The ship makes a monthly trip, taking approximately 7-9 days to reach the island. While slower than flying, this journey offers a unique perspective of the South Atlantic Ocean. Bookings can be made through Andrew Weir Shipping, the company responsible for operating the vessel.
Top Activities on Ascension Island
Ascension Island may be small, but it offers a wealth of activities for nature lovers, history buffs, and adventure seekers. Here are six must-do activities:
1. Hiking Green Mountain
Green Mountain is the highest point on Ascension Island and offers one of the most rewarding hikes in the South Atlantic. The trail to the summit takes you through a remarkable transition of ecosystems, starting with arid volcanic landscapes at the base and gradually ascending into lush, green cloud forests. Along the way, you'll encounter a variety of plant species, including endemic ferns and mosses, as well as panoramic views of the island and the surrounding ocean. At the summit, the Green Mountain National Park provides picnic areas and trails for further exploration.
Duration: The hike to the summit takes about 3-4 hours round trip, depending on your pace and how often you stop to admire the views.
Best Time: Early morning is the best time to start your hike to avoid the midday heat. The cooler months from May to October offer the most comfortable conditions for hiking.
2. Turtle Nesting at Long Beach
Ascension Island is a critical nesting site for the endangered Green Turtle, one of the island's most remarkable wildlife experiences. From November to May, these giant turtles return to the island's shores to lay their eggs. Long Beach, located near Georgetown, is one of the main nesting sites. Night-time guided tours are available, allowing you to observe these magnificent creatures as they come ashore to nest. If you're lucky, you might also witness the hatching of turtle eggs and the baby turtles' frantic dash to the ocean.
Best Time: The peak nesting season is from January to March, with hatching typically occurring about two months after the eggs are laid.
Guided Tours: Turtle tours are organized by the Ascension Island Conservation Office. It's recommended to book in advance, as the tours are popular and places are limited.
3. Exploring Historic Sites in Georgetown
Georgetown
Georgetown, the capital of Ascension Island, is steeped in history. The town's colonial architecture and historic landmarks offer a fascinating glimpse into the island's past. Start your exploration at the Ascension Island Heritage Society Museum, which provides an overview of the island's history, from its discovery by the Portuguese in 1501 to its role as a strategic military outpost. Other notable sites include Fort Hayes, a 19th-century fort that once protected the island, and the Georgetown Barracks, a reminder of the island's military heritage. The remains of the old cable station, once a key link in global communication, offer a poignant connection to the island's past.
Best Time: The museum and historic sites are open year-round, but visiting in the cooler months makes exploring more comfortable.
Tip: Take your time to walk through Georgetown's streets, where you can also visit the local shops and cafes for a taste of island life.
4. Snorkeling and Diving at English Bay
Ascension Island's surrounding waters are a snorkeler's and diver's paradise, with clear, warm waters and abundant marine life. English Bay is one of the best spots for underwater exploration, offering easy access to pristine coral reefs teeming with colorful fish, turtles, and occasionally dolphins. The island's remoteness has helped preserve its reefs, making them some of the most untouched in the world. For those looking for a more immersive experience, local dive operators offer guided diving excursions that take you to deeper waters where you can encounter larger pelagic species such as tuna, barracuda, and even the occasional whale shark.
Best Time: April to October offers the calmest sea conditions, ideal for snorkeling and diving.
Operators: Contact the Ascension Island Conservation Office or local dive instructors for equipment rental and guided tours.
5. Fishing at Comfortless Cove
Ascension Island is renowned for its game fishing, attracting anglers from around the world. The waters around the island are rich with species such as tuna, wahoo, and marlin. Comfortless Cove, located on the island's northwestern coast, is a popular spot for both shore fishing and boat charters. Whether you're an experienced angler or a novice, the thrill of reeling in a big catch in these waters is unforgettable. Local fishing guides offer charters that include all necessary equipment, as well as the expertise to help you make the most of your fishing experience.
Best Time: The peak fishing season is from November to April, when the waters are teeming with fish.
Booking: Fishing trips can be arranged through local accommodation providers or directly with fishing guides. It’s advisable to book in advance, especially during peak seasons.
6. Birdwatching at the Letterbox Peninsula
Ascension Island is a haven for birdwatchers, with a variety of seabirds that nest on the island. The Letterbox Peninsula, located on the eastern side of the island, is one of the best spots for birdwatching. The rugged cliffs provide nesting sites for species such as the Sooty Tern, Ascension Frigatebird, and Red-footed Booby. The island's bird population has been bolstered by successful conservation efforts, making it a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts. The Letterbox Trail, which takes you along the peninsula's scenic coastline, offers stunning views and plenty of opportunities to observe these magnificent birds in their natural habitat.
Best Time: Birdwatching is excellent year-round, but the breeding season from May to October is particularly rewarding.
Tip: Bring binoculars and a good camera with a zoom lens to capture the island’s avian residents up close.
7. Stargazing at Comfortless Cove
Thanks to its remote location and minimal light pollution, Ascension Island is an exceptional destination for stargazing. Comfortless Cove, in particular, offers a quiet, dark spot perfect for laying back and watching the night sky come alive. On a clear night, you can see the Milky Way in all its glory, along with a stunning array of constellations, planets, and sometimes even the occasional meteor shower. For those interested in astronomy, the island’s location near the equator provides a rare opportunity to view stars from both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.
Best Time: The best stargazing conditions are during the dry season from May to October, when skies are clearest.
Tip: Bring a star chart or download a stargazing app to help identify constellations and planets. A small telescope or binoculars can enhance your viewing experience.
8. Visiting the NASA Tracking Station
Ascension Island plays an important role in space exploration, serving as a key tracking station for NASA. The NASA Tracking Station, established during the Apollo missions, remains operational today, supporting various space missions. While the facility itself is not open to the public, visitors can learn about the island’s role in space history through exhibits at the Ascension Island Heritage Society Museum in Georgetown. The station’s presence on the island is a fascinating reminder of Ascension’s global significance beyond its small size and remote location.
Best Time: Year-round, with clear skies providing the best views of satellite passes.
Tip: Check with local guides or the museum for any special events or opportunities to learn more about the station's current operations.
9. Climbing Cross Hill for Panoramic Views
Cross Hill is one of the smaller peaks on Ascension Island but offers some of the best panoramic views of Georgetown and the surrounding coastline. The hike up Cross Hill is shorter and less challenging than Green Mountain, making it accessible to most visitors. From the summit, you can take in stunning vistas of the island’s volcanic landscape, the turquoise waters of the Atlantic, and the distant outlines of other peaks like Weather Post and Sister’s Peak. It’s an ideal spot for photography, especially at sunrise or sunset when the light casts dramatic shadows across the rugged terrain.
Duration: The hike to the summit takes about 1-2 hours round trip, depending on your pace and how long you spend at the top enjoying the view.
Best Time: Early morning or late afternoon for the best lighting and cooler temperatures.
Tip: Bring water, sun protection, and a camera to capture the breathtaking views.
10. Beachcombing at Shelly Beach
Shelly Beach, located on the island’s southern coast, is one of Ascension’s hidden gems. Unlike the black sand beaches found elsewhere on the island, Shelly Beach is composed of fine, white sand and is strewn with beautiful seashells, making it a perfect spot for beachcombing. The beach is also relatively secluded, offering a peaceful retreat where you can relax, swim in the clear waters, and enjoy the stunning coastal scenery. Keep an eye out for the unique marine life that inhabits the tide pools along the shore, including colorful fish, crabs, and sea anemones.
Best Time: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and enjoy the tranquility of the beach.
Tip: Take care when swimming, as the currents can be strong. Always check the local conditions before entering the water.
Where to Stay on Ascension Island
Accommodation on Ascension is limited but comfortable. The island offers a handful of guesthouses and self-catering units, mainly concentrated in the island’s capital, Georgetown. Staying here gives visitors a chance to experience the island’s small, close-knit community and immerse themselves in its unique way of life.
Where to Eat on Ascension Island
Dining options are similarly limited but offer a taste of local and international cuisine. The island's small population means that dining is often a communal experience, with friendly locals always ready to share stories and tips about island life. Freshly caught seafood is a highlight of the island's cuisine, with fish such as tuna and wahoo frequently on the menu.
Located in Georgetown, The Saints Club is a popular spot for both locals and visitors. The club offers a relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy a variety of dishes, including British pub classics and freshly caught seafood. The menu changes regularly, so there’s always something new to try. The club also has a bar, making it a great place to unwind after a day of exploring.
Specialties: Fresh fish and chips, wahoo steak, and hearty pub fare.
Tip: The Saints Club is a social hub on the island, so it’s a great place to meet locals and fellow travelers.
Essential Tips for Your Visit
- Currency: The official currency on Ascension Island is the Saint Helena pound (SHP), which is pegged at par with the British pound sterling (GBP). Both SHP and GBP are accepted on the island. While credit cards are accepted at major establishments, it's advisable to carry some cash, especially when traveling to more remote areas where card facilities may be limited.
- Communication: Internet access on Ascension Island is available but limited and can be expensive. Wi-Fi is provided at the Obsidian Hotel and some guesthouses, but don’t expect high-speed connections. Mobile phone coverage is available, though it’s best to check with your provider about international roaming charges before you travel.
- Health and Safety: Ascension Island has a small hospital in Georgetown that provides basic medical services, but for more serious conditions, evacuation to the UK or South Africa may be necessary. It's essential to bring any necessary medications with you, as supplies on the island may be limited. Travel insurance, including medical evacuation coverage, is strongly recommended.
- Weather: The weather on Ascension Island can be unpredictable, with sudden changes in temperature and occasional rain showers. Pack layers, including lightweight, breathable clothing for the day and warmer layers for the evenings. Waterproof gear and sturdy hiking boots are also recommended for outdoor activities.
- Respect Wildlife: Ascension Island is home to several protected species, including the endangered Green Turtle. Always maintain a respectful distance from wildlife, particularly nesting turtles and seabirds, to avoid disturbing them and to ensure your safety.
- Cultural Sensitivity: Ascension Island has a small, close-knit community. Visitors are encouraged to engage respectfully with locals and to take the time to learn about the island’s unique culture and history.
Ascension Island is not just a destination—it's a journey into the extraordinary. From scaling the heights of Green Mountain to marveling at the stars in the unblemished night sky, every moment on this remote island feels like a step into another world. Whether you’re uncovering the island’s history, diving into crystal-clear waters, or simply standing in awe of a nesting turtle, Ascension offers a profound connection to nature and a reminder of the beauty that exists far from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
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