A whisky lovers guide Isle of Islay distilleries

The Isle of Islay, often referred to as the "Whisky Island," has a rich history deeply intertwined with the craft of whisky making. This small Scottish island, nestled off the west coast of mainland Scotland, is home to nine of the world’s most iconic distilleries. For centuries, Islay has been the birthplace of whiskies that are loved by connoisseurs across the globe, known for their distinctive peatiness, complex flavors, and deep connection to the rugged landscape.

Whisky making on Islay dates back to the early 16th century, possibly even earlier. The island's remote location made it a perfect hideaway for illicit distillation in the days before whisky production was legalized in Scotland in 1823. The abundance of peat bogs, fresh water sources, and fertile land provided the ideal conditions for crafting a spirit that would eventually become world-renowned. Today, Islay’s distilleries continue to uphold these ancient traditions, blending them with modern techniques to produce some of the finest single malts available.

I recently had the pleasure of visiting this whisky paradise, and it was nothing short of a pilgrimage for a whisky lover like me. From the moment I set foot on the island, I was captivated by the wild beauty of the landscape, the warm hospitality of the locals, and, of course, the unparalleled quality of the whiskies. Join me as I recount my journey across Islay, exploring its legendary distilleries, each with its unique story and signature flavor.

Arriving on Islay: A Warm Welcome to Whisky Heaven

Stepping off the ferry at Port Ellen, I was immediately struck by the sense of calm that enveloped the island. The air was crisp, carrying with it the faint scent of peat smoke—a tantalizing prelude to the whisky adventures that lay ahead. My first stop was the Bowmore Distillery, one of the oldest on the island, dating back to 1779.

Bowmore Distillery: A Taste of Tradition

Bowmore is a place where history meets innovation. The distillery is located in the heart of the village of Bowmore, right on the shores of Loch Indaal. The old stone buildings, some of which are still in use today, tell a story of centuries-old whisky making. Walking through the distillery, I felt like I was stepping back in time. The tour guide shared fascinating insights into the distillery’s history, including its unique use of traditional floor malting—a rare practice today.

Tasting Bowmore’s whisky was an experience in itself. The signature Bowmore 12 Year Old is a perfect introduction to Islay whiskies, with its balance of peat smoke, subtle lemon, and honeyed sweetness. But the real star of the show was the Bowmore 18 Year Old, a rich and complex dram that lingered on my palate long after the last sip. The smoky notes were beautifully complemented by hints of chocolate, dried fruit, and a touch of the sea—a true reflection of the island’s character.

Laphroaig Distillery: The Quintessential Peat Experience

Next on my list was Laphroaig, a name that resonates with whisky enthusiasts around the world. Laphroaig is known for its unapologetically bold flavors, often described as medicinal, with a strong influence of peat smoke. As I approached the distillery, nestled on the southern coast of Islay, I could see the whitewashed buildings standing stark against the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean—a sight that filled me with anticipation.

The Laphroaig tour was an immersive experience. From the malting floors to the peat kilns, every step of the process was steeped in tradition. I learned about the unique peat that Laphroaig uses, which gives the whisky its distinctive iodine and seaweed notes. The highlight, of course, was the tasting session. The Laphroaig 10 Year Old is the distillery’s flagship expression, offering an intense blast of peat smoke, followed by a surprising sweetness and a long, dry finish. For those seeking something truly special, the Laphroaig 25 Year Old was a revelation—rich, smoky, and incredibly smooth, with layers of flavor that unfolded with every sip.

Lagavulin Distillery: A Whisky with Depth and Character

Just a short drive from Laphroaig lies Lagavulin, another giant in the world of whisky. Lagavulin is famed for its deep, rich, and smoky whiskies, often described as one of the most intense on Islay. The distillery, with its picturesque location on the shores of Lagavulin Bay, is a sight to behold. The iconic white buildings, with the bold "Lagavulin" lettering, are a testament to the distillery’s long and storied history.

The tour at Lagavulin was intimate and informative, offering a deep dive into the distillation process. Lagavulin’s slow distillation method is key to its distinctive character, producing a whisky that is both powerful and complex. The Lagavulin 16 Year Old is a masterpiece—rich and peaty, with hints of dried fruit, vanilla, and spice. It’s a whisky that demands to be savored slowly, allowing the layers of flavor to reveal themselves. For those fortunate enough to try it, the Lagavulin Distillers Edition offers a slightly sweeter, sherried take on the classic, without losing any of the signature smokiness.

Ardbeg Distillery: The Cult Favorite

Ardbeg is often hailed as the "cult" whisky of Islay, loved by those who appreciate its bold, peaty profile. The distillery is located in a stunning coastal setting, with a view that rivals the whisky itself. Ardbeg’s reputation for pushing the boundaries of flavor is well-earned, and I was eager to see what all the fuss was about.

The Ardbeg tour was a highlight of my trip. The guide’s passion for whisky was infectious, and the stories behind each expression were fascinating. Ardbeg is known for its innovative approach, often experimenting with cask finishes and limited editions. The tasting session was a sensory adventure. The Ardbeg 10 Year Old, with its explosive peat smoke, balanced by citrus and vanilla, is a must-try. But the Ardbeg Uigeadail, a cask strength expression, stole the show for me. Named after the loch that supplies Ardbeg’s water, Uigeadail is a powerhouse of flavors—peat, dark fruit, spice, and a touch of sweetness, all perfectly integrated. It’s a whisky that leaves a lasting impression, much like the distillery itself.

Bunnahabhain Distillery: A Gentler Side of Islay

After the intensity of Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Ardbeg, I was ready for something a little different. Bunnahabhain, located on the northern coast of Islay, offers a gentler, unpeated style of whisky that is quite distinct from its southern counterparts. The distillery’s remote location, overlooking the Sound of Islay, adds to its charm, making it a peaceful retreat for whisky lovers.

The Bunnahabhain tour was a more relaxed affair, with a focus on the craftsmanship that goes into each bottle. Bunnahabhain’s whiskies are known for their smoothness and complexity, with a maritime influence that reflects their coastal origins. The Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old is a perfect example—a beautifully balanced whisky with notes of fruit, nuts, and a hint of salt. For those who prefer something richer, the Bunnahabhain 18 Year Old is a delight, offering deep, sherried flavors with a touch of spice. It’s a whisky that showcases the softer side of Islay, without sacrificing depth or character.

Caol Ila Distillery: The Hidden Gem

Caol Ila, often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors, is a hidden gem on Islay. Located near Port Askaig, the distillery offers stunning views of the Paps of Jura across the water. Caol Ila’s whiskies are known for their balance of peat and fruit, making them a favorite among those who enjoy a more nuanced dram.

The tour at Caol Ila was a revelation. Despite being one of the largest distilleries on the island, Caol Ila maintains a focus on quality over quantity. The Caol Ila 12 Year Old is a fantastic introduction to the distillery’s style—lightly peated, with a delicate balance of citrus, apple, and a hint of smoke. For those seeking a more intense experience, the Caol Ila 18 Year Old offers a richer, more complex profile, with deeper smoke and a touch of sweetness. It’s a whisky that deserves more recognition and one that I was glad to discover on my journey.

Kilchoman Distillery: The New Kid on the Block

Kilchoman is Islay’s newest distillery, having opened its doors in 2005. Despite its youth, Kilchoman has quickly made a name for itself with its farm-to-bottle approach, where all aspects of production—from growing the barley to bottling the whisky—are done on-site. This dedication to traditional methods, combined with a focus on innovation, makes Kilchoman a fascinating place to visit.

The Kilchoman tour offered a unique insight into the workings of a modern distillery with a traditional soul. The whisky here is young, but it packs a punch. The Kilchoman Machir Bay, named after the nearby beach, is a vibrant, peaty dram with notes of vanilla, citrus, and smoke. The Kilchoman Sanaig, aged in both bourbon and sherry casks, offers a more complex experience, with a rich, fruity profile balanced by the signature Islay smoke. It’s exciting to see what Kilchoman will bring to the world of whisky in the years to come, and I’m glad I got to witness the beginning of this journey.

Bruichladdich Distillery: Where Innovation Meets Tradition

Bruichladdich is known for its boundary-pushing approach to whisky making, experimenting with cask types, barley strains, and even terroir to create unique expressions. Located on the western shores of Islay, Bruichladdich is a distillery that honors tradition while constantly seeking new ways to express the character of Islay.

The Bruichladdich tour was an eye-opener. The distillery’s ethos of transparency and innovation was evident in every aspect of the visit. Bruichladdich produces both peated and unpeated whiskies, with the latter being particularly intriguing. The Bruichladdich Classic Laddie is an unpeated whisky that showcases the purity of Islay’s ingredients, with notes of apple, pear, and a hint of oak. For peat lovers, the Octomore range is a must-try—often cited as the world’s peatiest whisky, it’s an intense, smoky experience that challenges the palate in the best possible way.

Ardnahoe Distillery: The Newest Member of the Family

Ardnahoe is the newest addition to Islay’s whisky family, having opened in 2018. Located on the northeastern coast, the distillery boasts stunning views of the Sound of Islay and the Paps of Jura. Ardnahoe’s approach combines traditional methods with a focus on quality, making it an exciting new player in the world of Islay whisky.

The Ardnahoe tour was a great way to end my whisky journey on Islay. The distillery’s commitment to craftsmanship was evident in every detail, from the design of the stills to the selection of casks. Although Ardnahoe’s whiskies are still young, the potential is undeniable. The Ardnahoe Single Malt, still in its early years, shows promise with its balanced peatiness and fresh, fruity notes. It’s a distillery to watch, and I can’t wait to see how its whiskies develop over time.

A Whisky Lover’s Paradise

My journey across Islay was everything I had hoped for and more. Each distillery offered a unique experience, showcasing the diversity of Islay whisky while remaining true to the island’s rich heritage. From the bold, smoky drams of the south to the gentler, maritime whiskies of the north, Islay truly has something for every whisky lover. The island’s stunning landscapes, warm hospitality, and deep connection to the craft of whisky making make it a must-visit destination for anyone with a passion for the spirit.

As I left Islay, my suitcase full of carefully selected bottles and my heart full of memories, I knew that this wouldn’t be my last visit in Islay.